Enrico Serafino Roero 2009

Enrico Serafino Nebbiolo Roero 2009Located just Northwest of the Langhe region in Piedmont, Italy (which contains sub-zones Barolo and Barbaresco), Roero is a somewhat overlooked producer of Nebbiolo, which is actually quite nice for those who are intrigued by (or obsessed with) the elegant but powerful wines made from this superb grape but don’t have the bank to fill their cellar with high-end Barolos. The bad news is that Nebbiolo is often unapproachable in its youth, requiring time on its side for tannins to smooth and flavors to open, and though Roero wines are released before Barolos and Barbarescos, good ones will also require time to show their best stuff.

This recently-released Chairman’s Selection from Enrico Serafino, a 135-year old winery now owned by Campari, is no exception. Though hinting at classic flavors of tar and roses, with bright cherry fruit and notes of black tea and cigar box, it was somewhat tight and a touch bitter. For immediate drinking, I’d suggest a long decant (3-4 hours minimum) and some grilled or roasted beef to pair. Better yet, pick up a few bottles at $13.99 and lay them down for a few years, when this bargain should pay handsome dividends.

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