Eroica Riesling 2011
A name check to Beethoven’s third symphony (and the Italian term meaning “heroic”), Eroica Riesling draws from the respective strengths of an international winemaking alliance between Chateau Ste. Michelle and Ernst Loosen. It’s Washington State fruit meets German knowhow, with a formidable boost from the former’s muscly distribution channels. Though not as remotely epic an achievement as Ludwig Van’s, the harmonies of its creators result in a wine that’s a logical selection for those who stand dubious of Riesling’s appeal.
A recent arrival in Pennsylvania, the 2011 Eroica Riesling is up-front accessible and suitable for easy sipping. A cooler growing season rendered a piercing acidity – core to any quality Riesling – that extends an inviting hand to food pairings and boosts intensity in the glass. There’s enough limey tartness and minerality to round out the grape’s cloying tendencies, delivering it from the too-sweet rap that fixates a lot of drinkers. That’s not to say it’s an experiment in austerity. Not even close. While there is a lean frame to the wine, it unfurls with ripe aromas, fruit and a spicy bite. Look to pair it with Asian foods (it can handle the curve balls of sesame and soy), turkey and full-flavored fish dishes.
Eroica Riesling 2011 is widely available in Pennsylvania for $21.99, as well as in neighboring states where it may be more favorably priced.