Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard’s Bud Break Festival

This is part two of our piece on the 2013 Drink Local Wine Conference held in Baltimore. Part one covered our experience at the conference and gave an overview of the MD wine scene. This article looks at which wineries to visit in MD.

From a tourist perspective, one might be most attracted to those Maryland wineries on the Eastern and Western shores of the Chesapeake Bay, but our experience suggested that those seeking the very best of MD wine should instead focus on Western Maryland, specifically the areas around Frederick and Westminster. With few exceptions, our favorite wines all came from this area, mostly at the convergence of the Frederick and Carroll Wine Trails. In addition, there are some interesting wines to be found in the Piedmont area north of Baltimore.

Western Maryland

Heading south from the town of Westminster down MD-27, you’ll find two of our favorites, just miles apart. First up is Old Westminster, a new entry to the scene that generated quite a bit of buzz at the conference with their well-made reds and even better-looking family employees.

Not much further down the road is Serpent Ridge, who had one of the strongest conference showings. Their Basilisk, a blend of Cab Franc and Sauvignon, was lighter in style, but aromatic and crisp and perfect for a wide variety of foods. Serpent Ridge’s Vintners Cab (95% Cab Sauv, the rest Franc) was also one of our favorites of the show, with well-integrated oak and ripe fruit.

Continuing towards Frederick via MD-27 and then MD-26, you’ll find Black Ankle Vineyards, the winery with perhaps the state’s best reputation. As mentioned in part one, Black Ankle’s Ed Boyce knows his stuff, and was by far the most compelling speaker at the conference portion of this event. That said, neither of us was blown away by his wines; the 2010 Crumbling Rock, a Bordeaux-blend, was over-oaked, with vanilla and spice covering up any fruit, and the Albarino was a bit too austere, but that didn’t stop it from winning the prize for the show’s best white wine – proving we may not know what the heck we are talking about!

Just down a winding country road from Black Ankle lies Linganore Winery, and our best-in-show value ($11), the Terrapin White, a crisp, delicious, Alsatian-style wine that not only showcases Anthony Aellen’s mastery of winemaking, but also his understanding of the Maryland climate and marketplace. Considering he’s been making wine from this vineyard since the early 70s, it’s certainly no surprise.

About a half-hour south of Frederick, but certainly worthy of note, is Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard, producer of EVOE!, a Bordeaux blend that took home best in show red honors – this one we agreed with – as well as an excellent Pinot Grigio. (Yep, you read that last part right.) Below is a video conversation with SMV owner Mike McGarry we recorded during the tasting:

Though admittedly we aren’t too familiar with the city of Frederick as a tourist destination, surely a great way to cap off a day of wine tasting in the region would be dinner at Volt, the highly-regarded restaurant from Top Chef-finalist Bryan Voltaggio, followed by a faceplant into the pillows of some local B&B.

Baltimore & Points North

Not far from the true center of Maryland wine – otherwise known as Robert Parker’s house in Monkton, a half-hour north of Baltimore – you’ll find Millstone Cellars, a producer of artisanal meads and ciders. Not wine per se, but interesting and different. For what it’s worth, Millstone seemed to be the booth that had the longest line throughout the conference tasting, although the young men pouring these beverages may have had something to do with that. (I found them dreamy.) In fairness, they did receive a best in show award for alternative wine, the Ciderberry Raspberry Cider.

Just up i83 from Monkton lies Woodhall Wine Cellars, and one of the more surprising standout wines of the conference – a Pinotage. This red grape, which is rarely found outside of South Africa, is often considered to be an acquired taste due to its unique ashy flavors, and is thus odd to find in a place like Maryland (which already has enough problems with perception). That said, winemaker Chris Kent told us that he wasn’t familiar with South African Pinotage when he initially started making the wine, so he just went on instinct, with no preconceived notions. What resulted is a lighter wine, featuring bright notes of strawberry and red cherries, and maybe just a touch of ash on the finish. Woodhall also poured a nicely made Port-style dessert wine.

On the western side of i83 lies Basignani Winery, and an even nicer Port, the Sinistra (which means “left” in Italian – the “port” side of a ship – get it?), which was quite smooth despite the high ABV. Basignani’s reds also showed promise, though we didn’t enjoy them as much as the velvety, integrated reds from Boordy Vineyards, located about equidistant from i83, i95 and i695 in Hydes, MD, about 20 minutes southwest of Monkton. (Also located in Hydes, about 2 minutes from Boordy, is DeJon Vineyard, who did not participate in the tasting.)

In conclusion, please do keep in mind that this guide is based on a tasting event we attended (in Baltimore) and the quality of wines at that event, not on visits to the wineries or their tasting rooms. Please be sure to check the website of each winery you plan to visit and confirm hours, dates, etc. before setting out.

Have you visited any Maryland wineries? If so, please share your experiences in the comments below.

The post Maryland Wine Travel Guide appeared first on Pennsylvania Vine Company.

Whereas the Carignano is rustic, a touch rough, and perhaps not for everyone, the Tanca Farra – which comes from the Alghero DOC – is more modern in style, making it very approachable, but not without nuance. In fact, one of the big wins about this wine is that just about anyone should be able to enjoy it, from the house red drinker to the fine wine collector. Rich and dense with dark berry fruit, it also offers sweet spice and vanilla flavors from extended time in oak (which mellow with air), and underlying hints of earth and garrigue (herbs de Provence), that suggest time in the cellar might even improve this wine for those of us who are always on the lookout for savory, secondary characteristics.

Pair with grilled red meats and/or stews. Drink now or hold 3-5 years. 91-93

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Old Westminster Winery

This is part one of our piece on the 2013 Drink Local Wine Conference held in Baltimore. This part covers our experience at the conference and gave an overview of the MD wine scene. Part two looks at which wineries to visit in MD.

Admit it, you know nothing about Maryland wine. It’s OK, you’re in good company. Until recently, when we realized it needed to change, your friends here at PAVC were living in the same state of ignorance. Really, it was more about admission. We could no longer remain aloof from a wine industry blossoming under our noses, just a short car ride away. After all, for as many years as we’ve been on the East Coast, we’ve sortied into Maryland and pillaged its primary booty: Beaches, crabs, Orioles, John Waters. How could we, in good conscience, not exploit its wines?

We’d accepted an invitation to the Drink Local Wine conference in Baltimore, a showcase for winemakers and a congregation of media, associations, restaurateurs and growers. For the associated wine producers of Maryland, the event is an effort to share collected knowledge and vision, past and future. For us? It’s all about the research, people.

The end goal of the conference, as far as we could tell, was to raise the bar and expand the market. “The baseline is quality. You have to have good quality,” said Kevin Atticks, executive director of the Maryland Wineries Association, who went on to say that it’s been mission accomplished over the past decade. About 60 wineries dot their landscape today.

Naturally, there are mixed opinions at any confab worth its salt. Such is true with Maryland winemakers.

“People just want to have fun,” chimed in Dave Collins, co-owner of Big Cork Vineyards in Washington County, near the base of Maryland’s panhandle. “It’s not about wine. It’s about the experience.” In other words, it’s the music (Kenny Loggins acoustic, anyone?), pretty views, barrel tastings and other gimmicks that seduce the wine-swilling public. We shuddered, knowing he was probably right, before he righted himself a touch. A kick of the dirt reveals the truth, he said. Maryland has the same ingredients for success found in Virginia: Good drainage and soils rich in shale and slate. That is, terrible soils make for excellent grape growing. Problem is, there’s a puzzling lack of vineyards, said Collins. Then he rolled over on on his thesis. “It is about wine.”

Ed Boyce of Black Ankle, the closest Maryland comes to a cult producer, was the voice of reason. “I think the challenge for us is consistency. What makes a great winery…is not that we do it once but that we do it every year…in a climate that’s clearly varied.” He proceeded to outline the maddening variations of cold, sun and months of drenching rain.

Boyce drove home the point that East Coast wine consistency is impossible because of the weather. The antidote is smart, variable blending – the key to high perennial achievement. “We can’t make consistent varieties in this climate,” he stressed, holding up the example of the radically different qualities of the Cab Franc yields of the 2010 and 2011 vintages. Reacting to extreme swings requires flexibility, he said, and Black Ankle ties its production of reserve and non-reserve wines directly to the climate’s temperament. The result is a consistent entry-level wine, but the difficult trade-off is a drought of higher-end wines.

The grape of Maryland? It’s the red blend, he half-joked.

The industry has gotten over the hump, Boyce estimated. “Over the past (several) years…we’re starting to get some really fantastic wines consistently made…I think we’re about to get over that mental barrier…I’m really hopeful about the future.”

Time to put that sentiment to the test. We loaded into a shuttle for a short drive to the Warehouse at Camden Yards (you may know it as the brick building in right field, the one Ken Griffey, Jr. drilled during the 1993 All Star Game Home Run Derby) where we sampled the wines of more than 20 producers participating in a “Twitter Taste-Off.”

In addition to offering us sips of sometimes-righteous pours, the tasting presented an opportunity to probe the omnipresent pricing conundrum that confronts many consumers who want to “buy local”: Do I buy a $40 bottle of in-state Merlot or put that money toward a killer Rhone blend? (Discuss amongst yourselves.)

Most bottles we sampled dwelled on the elevated price plane ($25 to $50) and only a couple winemakers served up a value play. One was Linganore’s Anthony Aellen, who poured the very good Terrapin white blend that sells for $11 a bottle. Bordeleau’s Pinot Grigio was also a standout value at $14.

In the second half of our Maryland report, Mike will map out some suggested wine routes in the Old Line State.

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This post is part of our ongoing series on wine reads.

Wine books that come across the PAVC desk tend to be somewhat academic – either a reference guide, a historical account, or perhaps a collection of essays about different wine topics. Though some read like novels (e.g. The House of Mondavi), almost all are non-fiction. As such, it was with great interest that we cracked open Nose, a recently-released novel by James Conaway, set in a fictitious wine-making valley of California that bears a striking resemblance to Napa.

Conaway does bring non-fiction wine writing experience to the table, with bestseller Napa: The Story of an American Eden and follow-up The Far Side of Eden, both of which dig into the real-life US winemaking capital. With Nose, however, he takes a decidedly more casual tone, playfully mocking the politics and personalities of the valley and the soap operas their lives often become.

The story’s MacGuffin is the delivery of a mysterious, unlabeled bottle to Clyde Craven-Jones (aka “CJ”), the world’s foremost wine critic, whose unabashed love of big, bold wines has reverberated throughout the wine world and inspired many wines aimed at his palate. (Sound familiar? He also publishes a paper newsletter.) This mystery wine is the first ever American wine to receive a 20-point score (the best possible), but CJ doesn’t know who made it. The ensuing quest to identify said wine, led by protagonist and valley newcomer Lester Breeden, weaves its way in and out of the lives of the biggest characters in the valley.

Much like CJ’s preferred quaff, this book is made for easy consumption and lacks the complexity of finer works – with thin characters and predictable plot twists – but it’s most definitely a fun, quick read that anyone who loves wine and has familiarity with Napa Valley should find entertaining.

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After a full day of yard chores in semi-hot weather, my idea of liquid refreshment is a tall pour of fresh and cool. In wine terms, it’s a time when my eyes are peeled for bottles of low alcohol, fruit-leaning whites – ideally with taut acidity to rejuvenate my work-slackened senses.

The wine I’m here to talk about, the Saxon Brown Semillon Fighting Brothers Cuvée, doesn’t fully fit the bill. Regardless, this Chairman’s Selection is a well-priced winner (at $16.99) with a bold array of benefits. It’s delicious but it’s not light on its feet.

Fighting Brothers is the vinous offspring of veteran vintner Jeff Gaffner, he of the impressive Sonoma resumé that includes a stretch at Chateau St. Jean. From the top, its nose conjures a bowl of fresh-cut pears and what I can best describe as sea air. The large sugar crystals clinging to the cork signal the nectar-y rush to follow as the viscous, pale yellow liquid coats the mouth. The palate immersion is tempered by spicy herb and creamy qualities on the mid palate and a long, acid-tinged finish.

The regal flavors of Semillon could prove too fleshy or ponderous for springtime taste buds if it weren’t for creative blending. As with many bottlings of the variety, it’s probable that a modest share of Sauvignon Blanc was added to boost acidity and focus.

The dirty little secret of many California wines – even whites – is the elevated alcohol content. In this case it’s a not-insignificant 13.5%, and there is a touch of burn with each sip. Which is why it’s a wine to savor slowly, whether in the warm open air or on a rainy May evening alongside roasted chicken and veggies. While you’re at it, you might tuck a bottle or two away for Thanksgiving turkey. Whatever your tact, take in that nose. It’s a seducer and probably its marquee feature – a beacon to the rich, practically pungent fruit in store. 88-90

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This recently-released Chairman’s Selection from Enrico Serafino, a 135-year old winery now owned by Campari, is no exception. Though hinting at classic flavors of tar and roses, with bright cherry fruit and notes of black tea and cigar box, it was somewhat tight and a touch bitter. For immediate drinking, I’d suggest a long decant (3-4 hours minimum) and some grilled or roasted beef to pair. Better yet, pick up a few bottles at $13.99 and lay them down for a few years, when this bargain should pay handsome dividends.

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Conjure this image, if you can: busloads of thirsty people caravanning from one New Jersey winery to another, looking to get their grape on. State roads and byways resembling Napa Valley’s Rt. 29, where you can’t throw a magnum without hitting a tasting room. And a “new” Jersey where shelves loaded with wines from orchard fruit vies for space with “real” wine. New Jersey as New Napa, morphing from Springsteen and Sopranos to Semillon and Sauvignon.  The potential is there, if you believe recent newspaper articles – including one in the New York Times – and dialogue circulating in the blogosphere.

To gain perspective on matters relative to the state of Jersey wine affairs, I headed down Rte. 55 to the eponymous winery of Bill and Penni Heritage in Mullica Hill. Their vineyards, most of which have been family owned since the 19^th century, occupy the second highest elevation south of Trenton. The first branded winery in Gloucester County, Heritage Vineyards currently has 40 acres under vine, double the amount from 2009, which was also the inaugural crush for head winemaker Sean Comninos, a rising star in East Coast wine circles. It’s not a coincidence that the increase in plantings at Heritage mirrors the recognition he’s received, including a favorable review in the San Francisco Chronicle for his 2010 Brut Sparkling Rose.

Over the course of a casual two-hour conversation, it became evident that Sean is a believer in the relevance of terroir, a viewpoint he readily admits “changed as [he] transitioned from wine drinker to winemaker,” while citing the nine separate soil profiles of the acres he tends. Most of it is loamy sand, which drains well and is common to the Outer Coastal Plain AVA (American Viticulture Area) of which Heritage is a part, but he also spoke of distinct variations in the unique compositions from one side of the road that bisects the vineyards to the other, and the effects those differences produces in their seven acres of Merlot, a grape he feels is well-suited to the conditions of the AVA.

“The varietal requires only a short growing season, unlike other familiar grapes, which is what we have in South Jersey. So it ripens more easily and can achieve great depth of color. And since it doesn’t develop strong tannins, you can drink it young.”

Regarding the challenges he and nearby winemakers face, he was quick to respond, “East Coast humidity and the lack of cool nights”, a double whammy that makes it hard for grapes to achieve natural balance and build up sufficient acidity. He added that unpredictable weather patterns the last two years compounded the normal problems that he deals with. Despite the havoc wrought by Sandy, Sean felt that 2012 was overall a solid vintage, the most balanced of the four he has helmed.

Having faith in what can be accomplished in New Jersey, Sean is firm in his commitment to working with the owners and staff to make Heritage a quality-based vinifera winery, a conundrum for Garden State producers since it is easier to market the fruit-based wines that have been an economic staple for decades. Income generated from on-site sales and events pays the bills – and allows for experimentation and growth in the fine wine sector. But let’s face it, the reality of sweet wines has created the general perception of that being all the state has to offer. Though he acknowledges that Heritage markets generic “New Jersey” wines under a separate label, Sean states that the winery is invested for the long haul “in making the land profitable, becoming a leader in our state’s viticulture, and maintaining the viability of fine wines.” It won’t be an easy task; the local wine industry is still in its infancy contrasted to California, Oregon, and other American wine areas. Part of that is the history and continuity of the types of wine made in those places and the capitalization that makes expansion and improvements possible.

How, then, to elevate consumer awareness and acceptance of New Jersey wines, if not to the level of the West Coast, at least to being in any discussion that involves the Finger Lakes and Long Island? Certainly not, as one writer proposed (facetiously I hope), by not labeling them as New Jersey grown and produced.

Sean shared some thoughts on how to bring about a transformation. First, “…bringing together the key players, the winemakers, vineyard managers, the business people to push the idea of making quality wine.” He stressed “the need to understand the land and what it can and can’t do”, leading to “improved practices in the vineyards, which is primary, but also in the cellar.” His grassroots approach, natural for someone so intimately involved in the final product, is markedly different from suggestions in academic circles for some sort of collective action reliant on marketing strategies and economic models. The teamwork he and the Heritage family envisions “could make New Jersey a truly Garden State of well- made wine,” and return it in some degree to its agricultural roots. He also points out that education is a key “in helping people understand wine, and in building a market base with the knowledge of what New Jersey is capable of becoming.”

With the growing season upon him, I asked Sean what a winemaker does in the off-season. He spoke of needing to “monitor the reds from the fall harvest to make sure they are ready to blend”, of pruning and new planting, “of taking an inventory of where you are and where you want to be. It’s a clean slate, a time of hope. You play on your strengths and correct the weaknesses. Every vintage is a new challenge.” Sounds a lot like life, or the manager of every major league team in April.

As our afternoon was drawing to a close, I asked which wine he was most proud of. Without hesitation, he picked the aforementioned sparkling rose, a first ever attempt at a true methode champenoise style. It’s 51% Pinot Noir, the rest Chardonnay, aged two years on its lees and disgorged in August 2012. Though I must admit that sparkling wine is not my libation of choice, the obvious attention to detail and results in the glass piqued my taste buds: yeasty, with lively acidity and bright fruit, clean and vaguely nutty. The only downside is that it’s only available at the winery. But after you’ve traveled over the river and past the malls, you can also sample Sean’s 2010 Bordeaux blend that placed third of ten entries in a blind tasting of French and New Jersey wines, sandwiched between a prestigious (read that “first growth”) $650 French heavyweight and a noteworthy Gallic representative with a $120 price tag. Not bad for a guy just shy of turning thirty –  and a fine example of a heritage in progress.

Heritage Vineyards
480 Mullica Hill Rd.
Harrison Township, NJ 08062
(856) 589-4474

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PA Vine Co. is giving away a pair of tickets to the Penns Woods Wine & Jazz Festival on Saturday May 18th!

Sample and sip on your favorite Penns Woods Wines while you listen to the tunes of the renowned jazz band Dave Wilson Quartet and jazz pianist Rocco Fiorentino. There will be hors d’oeuvres and homemade pasta stations by the acclaimed Talluto’s Authentic Italian Food and Cento Fine Foods! For dessert, there will be a gourmet cupcake station by Food Networks Cupcake Wars Winner Dia Doce and coffee by Golden Valley Farms Coffee Roasters!

Ticket includes 6 wine tastings or a glass of wine, a souvenir wine glass, live jazz concert, hors d’oeuvres and desserts. Proceeds from the raffle go to The Little Rock Foundation for children who are blind or visually impaired. More info

To enter, simply like PA Vine Co. on Facebook, follow us on Twitter and subscribe to our Newsletter. For the best chance to win, do all three!

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Ruffino is one of those producers that I tend to pass over – though they make consistently solid wines, they’re relatively ubiquitous and thus unexciting – the type of wine that would be an excellent find in a lackluster supermarket selection, but we live in PA, so that situation never actually occurs. This release, however, commemorates their 60th anniversary, an interesting reason as any to pick up a bottle. (Though 60 years might not seem to be substantial in the lifetime of Italian culture, the Italian wine renaissance – the making of truly high-quality wine – really started in the 1980s, so it has perhaps more meaning in this space.)

From the official press release:

1947 marked an iconic year for Italy: the Treaty of Peace was signed in Paris effectively ending World War II; Ferrari introduced the very first sports car in its line of vehicles, the Ferrari 125S; and Italy’s reigning queen herself, Sofia Loren, began her lucrative career in entertainment and modeling. As 1947 brought the rebirth of Italian style following the war, Ruffino RDO was born, helping to usher in a golden age of Italian culture celebrated worldwide.

Just a touch of embellishment perhaps, but still a good story with which to enjoy the wine. As mentioned, this one was surprising. Many CC Riservas can be over-oaked and plodding, but this baby had loads of that mouthwatering acidity that makes CC such a great food wine. Bright red fruits dominate, with nice touches of earth and leather on the nose and palate. Paired beautifully with papardelle with pork ragu. The main drawback here is iffy QPR ($39.99 in PA) – there are many excellent Chianti Classicos available in the $15-20 range, so it’s tough to recommend doubling your price here, although this would certainly make a nice gift. 88-91pts

Note: a review sample of this wine was provided.

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For the Chard faithful who’ve had it with mouthfuls of malolactic, this offering might just bail out the butter. On the pale side of golden, the wine gives off a gentle, pleasant aroma – a little toasty, a little zesty. Its time in steel and neutral oak barrels leaves ample room for the estate-grown fruit’s qualities to breathe. Supported by a firm spine of acidity, the flavors cover a range from a dollop of cream and modestly toasty vanilla to mineral-infused pear and pineapple. The touch of heat on the finish isn’t surprising given a 14.2% alcohol content. That aside, it’s one lean, long, alert Chardonnay.

As a PLCB Chairman’s Selection at $17.99, this is a honey of a deal. Online pricing skews considerably higher, starting around $28. 89-91

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