Jones of Washington Riesling 2012
This Riesling hails from the Ancient Lakes appellation of Washington’s Columbia Valley, located near the center of the state. The Ice Age-ravaged location is distinguished by its sandy and rocky conditions, and cooler temperatures compared to those found in neighboring AVAs. In total, it makes for favorable conditions for growing white wine grapes. As added cachet, Ancient Lakes was only recently designated as an appellation, making this Jones bottling, available in-state for $11.99, one of the earliest wines to bear the mark.
Low in alcohol, ripe and spicy to the nose, the wine’s acid makes a bold first impression. Its stinging quality punctuates the luscious peachy/citrusy fruit and subtle ginger flavors. With medium-plus body, the balance is delivered by way of minerality and, in what could be its most impressive trait, a sharp and dry finish. Rather than gradually transitioning from the fruit, it hairpins away deftly without losing control. It’s a thrilling transition.
This is delicious and vivacious wine. Drinking it, I’m reminded of another Columbia Valley Riesling I’m awfully fond of, Charles Smith’s Kung Fu Girl. More reason to look west for Riesling relief, if you haven’t already.